tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5839508507864602815.post8138652499963034429..comments2024-03-20T22:43:17.866-05:00Comments on Chair Notes: Why Hide Glue?Peter Galberthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02206420121702258974noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5839508507864602815.post-36489757357815166162007-02-24T06:54:00.000-05:002007-02-24T06:54:00.000-05:00Philip,I'll be talking about buying and using glue...Philip,<BR/>I'll be talking about buying and using glue very soon. As far as wood choices go. It is really the strength characterisics and workability that dictates which wood to use. For the bents parts and spindles, any ring porous hardwoods will work, I prefer white oak and hickory (mainly for combback spindles). For seats, I would use any wood that can be dried in 2" thick planks and is workable. Stay away from heavy hardwoods and look to pine, poplar, basswood, butternut or any other workable wood. I only use hard maple on my balusters because I like to have dramatic thicks and thins, but for other styles, a variety of woods are plenty strong. I prefer to turn fine grains woods such as maple or cherry. You can use whatever you like as long as the wood is strong enough for the thinnest parts of your turnings. It's all really based on common sense, there are no rules. So work with what you can get and look critically at the finished parts as to whether they meet your standards for strength and workability.<BR/>PetePeter Galberthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02206420121702258974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5839508507864602815.post-33383806594892899352007-02-24T04:47:00.000-05:002007-02-24T04:47:00.000-05:00I just discovered your Blog this morning and find ...I just discovered your Blog this morning and find it a wonderful resource of information. I have made just 3 Windsors, a continuous arm and two comb backs. Would you provide names of products you use, ie, the wood glue, etc? That would be helpful to novices like me. Also, the choices we make in woods for components has quite a variance, depending on the part of the country you are in. Any comments on those choices would be appreciated. Thanks for the effort to keep your knowledge flowing to folks like me.PhilipFhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11682322575422865288noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5839508507864602815.post-23274969881113002202007-02-23T17:07:00.000-05:002007-02-23T17:07:00.000-05:00Mark,I use a 6 degree taper. I believe that the st...Mark,<BR/>I use a 6 degree taper. I believe that the straighter tenons hold better and reams easier. Just think of a morse taper in your lathe.<BR/>PetePeter Galberthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02206420121702258974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5839508507864602815.post-15291182744591419202007-02-23T16:33:00.000-05:002007-02-23T16:33:00.000-05:00Glad you are doing this blog! I am looking forwar...Glad you are doing this blog! I am looking forward to learning more of your methods. I have made only 2 chairs and have used white glue - as taught by windsor institute - but will be giving hide glue a try on the current chairs I am building.<BR/><BR/>I am curious what deg taper you use in leg/seat joinery?<BR/><BR/>Mark<BR/>www.jerichosettlersfarm.comjericho farmerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16765081594925596710noreply@blogger.com